When it comes to protecting and maintaining your bike chain, there are two main options:
Chain oil and chain wax both have their pros and cons, and choosing the best product depends on your personal needs and preferences.
Chain oil:
Pros:
Easy to apply: The chain oil is easy to apply and can be used to lubricate all transmission parts quickly, there is no waiting to use it, just apply and go out and ride.
Excellent Lubrication: Chain oil provides excellent, long-lasting lubrication, which can help prevent chain friction and wear.
It can last for many km: If the outing has been on the road or dust-free paths, the lubrication is longer lasting than with wax.
Best for extreme wet or wet conditions: Chain oil is waterproof and can protect the chain from rust, making it ideal for cyclists facing harsh weather conditions.
Cons:
It's dirtier: Oil can be prone to jumping off the chain and staining your clothes or your bike.
Attracts dust: Chain oil and dust are not good friends, since the mixture will create a paste that will force us to clean the transmission after the dusty ride.
Chain wax:
Pros:
Easy to clean: Chain wax resists dust much better than oil and does not get dirty as quickly since it is a dry lubricant.
Long-lasting protection: Chain wax provides long-lasting protection and can last several rides if there has been no contact with water or moisture.
Non-staining: Chain wax does not stain or get dirty, making it ideal for cyclists who want to keep their bike and clothing clean.
Cons:
Can be difficult to apply: Chain wax can be more difficult to apply than chain oil, requiring at least 15 minutes drying time to be somewhat effective and about 5-6 hours to be 100% effective.
Less effective in wet conditions: Chain wax may be less effective in extreme conditions, such as rain and snow, and may require more frequent reapplication in these conditions.
In conclusion, both products have their pros and cons, and choosing the best one depends on your personal needs and preferences.
Frequently Asked Questions Bike lubricants with graphene
There are two large groups of lubricants for the bicycle chain.
Wet chain lube or dry chain lube?
Let's be honest! There is no perfect bike chain lubricant for all climates, all terrains and all riders, what we can find is a bike lubricant that best adapts to each type of outing and climate.
As an example, if you are going to the Titan Desert or the Monegros I would use a dry chain lube instead of a wet chain lube, simply because the dust is going to predominate in those types of races if it does not rain. If you look at user opinions on marketplaces like Amazon, in Germany they prefer oil , and in Spain and Italy they prefer wax , basically in general terms due to the dry or humid climate.
On the other hand, if you are going to go to Purito, I would use wet lubricant with graphene, since the climate of Andorra can be more humid and rainy, the roads are clean and there are many kilometers. Wet lubricant reduces the coefficient of friction more than dry lubricants, so if we can save a few watts they are welcome.
Does this mean that we cannot use wax in the cigarillo or oil in the black ones? Well no, since there is quite a range within dry and wet lubricants, but it would be a general overview of their use.
Basically we find two families of bicycle chain lubricants “ OILS AND WAXES ”:
Wet lubricants “ Oil ”
Advantages:
- They lubricate more than waxes .
- They resist humidity better.
- They last longer than waxes .
- Immediate usability.
- They resist water and mud better.
Disadvantages:
- They are dirtier when faced with dust.
- More careful application to avoid contaminating discs.
- They can stain the frame with drops of excess lubricant.
A wet lubricant does not mean that it is suitable for humid climates or rainy days, but rather that it acts in a wet format, that is, an oil. When applied it will always remain in liquid format and it is this oil film that favors the reduction of friction between the components of the bicycle transmission.
There are oils with different compositions that will make them lubricate better or worse, currently the best additive and the one that reduces the friction coefficient the most is graphene. It is a material that we are going to begin to see in many products although it is quite expensive, especially in the world of cycling it is beginning to be used in lubricants, tires and frames.
Wet lubricant, “oils”, have several advantages and I would say a disadvantage, they lubricate more and last longer than dry lubricants, that is, wax type lubricants, they hold more moisture and can be applied and used on the bicycle instantly. They are water-repellent, repel water while protecting against rust and tend to penetrate all corners of the chain, much more so if they incorporate graphene, since the particle is at a molecular level, there is no smaller and more resistant particle within the lubricant additives than that of graphene.
The disadvantage they have is that on very dry days and with a lot of dust or dirt in the environment they can create a kind of paste on the chain, that is, they are dirtier. They can also dirty the frame if the excess oil is not removed from the chain, and if they touch the brake disc it must be cleaned because it would stop braking.
As an anecdote, if you have the opportunity to see professional cycling teams live, especially on the road, you will see that they use lubricant in oil format, even though they are sponsored by a wax brand. We can find oils designed for humid environments, which are very thick and stick more to the chain, making it harder for them to wash away with water. They have the disadvantage that they will get dirty very quickly in dusty environments.
There are also oil lubricants designed for dry climates, which are very liquid, penetrating all chain and transmission components. They have the advantage that they lubricate much better than a wax, they get much less dirty than those designed for humidity, but a little more than dry lubricants.
At Migou bcn we have opted for a wet lubricant with graphene, which would be an oil base 50% for dry and 50% for wet, that is, mixed climates, but with the advantage that by incorporating graphene, it lubricates much more, gets much less dirty and exponentially increases durability.
We could say that it is a lubricant for all terrains and climates, for riders who seek to save watts and participate in competitions, so pampering and cleaning the bicycle is not a problem for them.
Dry lubricant “Wax”
Advantages:
- Easier application
- They resist dust better.
- They don't dirty the painting.
- Really comfortable to use.
Disadvantages:
- Water harms them more.
- You must wait a minimum of 30 minutes before using them.
- Less durability than wet ones.
Dry lubricant can be liquid wax or paste format, but the most commonly used are water-based liquids. It is a biodegradable liquid lubricant that, when dry, leaves a film adhered to the chain that acts as a separator between the metal components, therefore reducing the friction between them.
That is why it is necessary to let them dry before using, normally 20-30 minutes are usually effective, but if you let them dry for 8-9 hours is when they really reach the maximum lubrication point. They are very convenient lubricants to use, since it does not matter too much that we add excess liquid, once dry the excess will go away, we simply clean the chain, and apply the lubricant, yes, the chain must be dry.
Being a dry lubricant, the dust will not stick to the chain or will stick much less than a wet lubricant, instead the water will cause it to dissolve, dragging it with it and therefore leaving the chain without the protective film. The Migoubcn graphene wax has the advantage of increasing water resistance, since the graphene is introduced into all the holes in the metal, no matter how small they may be. In addition to being water-repellent, these same characteristics make it last much longer than a wax without graphene. .
Lubricants in wax format would be recommended for outings where dust and dry weather predominate. Likewise, if you are a cyclist who prefers comfort over performance, you should choose wax, especially with graphene since it will last long enough to ride about 150km and with the convenience of not having to clean the chain thoroughly before each use.
As a general rule, I usually use dry chain lubricant with graphene for MTB, since living in Spain and the Mediterranean area, the climate is dry and there is little rain. But that is my case, you cannot recommend a wet or dry lubricant without analyzing the climate in which we are going to ride.
I have shot in Morocco and used wax , I have shot in Belgium and used oil, I choose one or the other depending on the outing to take.
If we are referring to technical characteristics and mechanical properties, oil is a better lubricant than wax , it simply lubricates more and lasts longer on the chain, but it has the drawbacks of dirt. For example, our oil with graphene can last up to 500 km when running in favorable conditions, that is, neither dust nor water, while wax can last up to 200 kilometers, more than enough for a Sunday outing.
If you are an amateur cyclist you are going to do rides of 50-80km, so the wax will last the entire route. Perhaps it will compensate you to use wax , since it is more comfortable and cleaner, and losing 5-6 watts compared to oil means nothing to you.
On the other hand, if you want to steal a Strava KOM from your friend or you are competing, you are interested in maintaining the optimal state of lubrication and scraping as many watts as possible, so using oil is optimal in that case, although you must clean the bike later. Deeper.
Bicycle chain wax is a dry or solid lubricant emulsified in water, although we apply it wet or liquid, it is called dry lubricant because it works in dry conditions, not because it is suitable for dry environments, once the water dries where the wax is dissolved. wax, adheres to the metal parts of the transmission, reducing the friction between the metal parts that slide between them due to wax-wax contact, all without the need for a liquid as occurs in oil.
The lubricating function in this type of waxes is provided by its layer structure at the molecular level, the layers minimally slide over each other almost effortlessly, so they are capable of dry lubrication. If an additive is also added to the bicycle chain wax, we can multiply its lubricating and mechanical properties. The most common additives that are applied to the bicycle chain wax are Teflon or PTFE, Graphite and the BEST of all, Graphene. . The wax creates an effect similar to ice, or if you slide two mirrors against each other, as they are smooth surfaces, they slide with little effort, canceling the saw or sandpaper effect of the metals.
Bicycle wax began to be used mainly as a dry lubricant on MTBs, since it is very clean. The problem we encounter when we lubricate the chain of an MTB with oil and on dusty roads is the dirty paste that forms. This problem does not occur when using chain wax on the MTB, since since the entire transmission is dry, the dust does not stick to it or very little sticks to it. That is why bike chain wax is most often applied on MTB or gravel bikes, although dry lubricant can also be applied on road bikes. Nor will we suffer stains on the frame due to splashes of excess dry lubricant.
Operation of the bicycle wax during the route
Normally when starting the route the chain can be a little “hard”, this is because there is too much ceramic lubricant in the bike chain. During the first 2-3 kilometers, the dry lubricant from the excess chain falls off and that is when it lubricates best. As the kilometers go by, the bike chain wax will gradually degrade, lubricating less and less.
The duration of bicycle chain wax depends greatly on the quality of the lubricating wax, its additives such as PTFE or graphene wax, and environmental conditions. The most basic and cheapest waxes usually last on the chain about 40 km, the highest quality waxes about 80-100 km and wax with graphene can last up to 200-300 km. The duration will depend a lot on humidity, dust, crossing rivers and puddles. These factors affect the effectiveness of the wax.
It could be said that the only problem or drawback of wax is its wet use, when we apply wax to the chain we are adding water with dissolved solid particles, the water dries and the wax remains on top of the metal as an external layer. When we cross a river and wet the transmission, the wax is diluted in the water and comes off the metal. So we are left without dry lubricant in the chain.
It is not advisable to use wax lubricant for chains if we are going to ride in the wet, normally on rainy days there is no dust, there is water if we are on the road, and there is mud if it is in the mountains, so we must use oil , since it is water-repellent .
The problem arises when we go out on dry days with dusty roads but we have to cross rivers, if the exit is short a good wax with graphene is ideal, if the exit is long and there are many river crossings perhaps we should take wax with graphene and apply when the noises start. We can take advantage of a break to have breakfast, we apply the wax and in 10-15 minutes it begins to be effective, although it is not ideal, or better yet oil since its use is immediate.
There is no perfect lubricant for general use, the one that works when wet gets dirty with dust, and the one that works with dust doesn't resist water well.
If when crossing a river it seems like crickets are chasing you, or on rainy days and to a lesser extent on humid days with fog the same thing happens to you, there are wax models that claim to be for wet use, but they are waxes with oil or lubricating liquid. , losing the property of cleanliness. Nowadays the only wax that works wet is wax with graphene, and it is not because of the wax, but when the wax disappears, the graphene is left behind, which is water-repellent, although it will last much less than when dry.
There are a few simple steps to follow to maximize the effectiveness of bike chain wax.
Clean the transmission
The first thing to do is clean the transmission well to remove any dirt and any remains of oil or dry lubricant that may remain. It is extremely important to clean the sprockets, pulleys, plates and chain, that is, the entire transmission, not just the chain, the metal must be bare so that once we apply the wax it is in contact with the entire surface.
To clean the transmission you must use a degreaser. There are so-called biodegradable degreasers that are much less powerful than petroleum-derived degreasers. For the transmission it is better to use a powerful degreaser.
If there are traces of dirt and lubricant, they will be mixed with the new chain wax and in addition to not adhering to the wax in the dirty areas, it will mix forming a paste that produces the opposite effect. It is advisable to use a degreaser designed for bicycles. that are respectful of the paint and rubber on the bike.
Drying the bicycle transmission
It is important to remove traces of degreaser or soap from the transmission, so all parts and nooks must be rinsed very well with water. We will rotate the transmission with the bike stopped so that it expels all the water and we will dry it with a cloth. Once dry, make sure that there is no moisture left on the chain, sprockets or chainring.
We must not leave the chain unlubricated, since the bare metal can rust. If we have done an outing in a clean and dry environment and we see that the transmission is clean, we can remove the dirt with a brush and apply chain wax. bike directly, but every 2 or 3 rides the transmission will have to be thoroughly cleaned.
Apply bike chain wax or lubricant
For the bicycle chain wax to be 100% effective it must dry, so we will apply the chain wax at least 4 hours before using the bicycle. Normally, bike chain wax reaches 70% effectiveness if it dries for 1 hour, and 50% effectiveness if it dries for 15 minutes. It is best to apply the day before departure and if we can, 1 or 2 hours before applying another layer.
How to put bike chain wax
Apply a generous layer of dry bicycle lubricant on the outside and inside of the chain links, at the same time we will pass them through all the sprockets and plates. It has to be left to dry for a few minutes and we apply another layer but less abundantly, the bike can be used after a few hours.
If we are going to store the bike for a few days or weeks, it is advisable to apply another layer of chain wax before using, since the wax is gradually diluted by ambient humidity and loses effectiveness.
Graphene wax is currently the bicycle chain wax with the most advanced additive of the moment, graphene is a material 100% derived from carbon but with a different molecular structure, it is similar to graphite but far exceeds its mechanical properties. It is 300 times harder than steel with a density similar to that of carbon.
It is water-repellent, repels dust and prevents corrosion as it is not affected by oxygen, and it also has one of the smallest particles known so far. All this means that incorporating graphene into the wax for the bicycle chain improves its lubricating qualities, the graphene molecule is capable of entering the valleys of the sawtooth of the metal
The graphene molecule that is suspended within the wax with graphene, fills all the crevices of the metal, no matter how small, leaving a smooth surface and thus avoiding the sandpaper effect that occurs when one metal rubs against another, apart from leaving the smooth surfaces, by incorporating graphene into the wax and having such a hard particle. It is as if there is a layer of unbreakable balls between the two pieces that move, first we have the wax itself with graphene that separates the moving metals.
The base of the wax with graphene degrades with friction and humidity. Once the wax disappears, the graphene remains, separating the metal parts as an intermediate layer, preventing wear. It is the same principle as bearings but at a molecular level.
Bicycle oil is a wet lubricant, that is, a liquid that is placed between two pieces that move with each other and thus minimize friction. The lubricant creates a separation between the two pieces, for example the chain and the sprockets, preventing friction. . You could say that it is the chain oil that rubs against itself as it is a more or less viscous liquid. In addition to avoiding or reducing frictional wear, a good bicycle chain oil must protect against corrosion, humidity and the appearance of rust.
Chain oil format: Spray oil or liquid oil
In the market we can find these two formats.
Bicycle spray oil
Applying the oil in spray has the advantage that we can reach hidden places and with more precision than in liquid, since it comes out under pressure and in small drops, so it will penetrate better into all the parts to be lubricated. The chain oil comes out in the form of an aerosol, that is, small particles of oil that diffuse and impregnate the entire surface of the chain or other parts of the transmission.
Liquid bike chain oil
The advantage of the liquid format is that we can use much thicker oils designed for environments with a lot of water, but this type of oil does not penetrate all the gaps in the transmission, which is why using a less dense oil with graphene is a better solution. .
Types of oils for bicycle chains
We have two major differentiations of oils for bicycle chains, the first would be by their use, for dry, wet or for all climates, and the second would be by their additives, Graphene, Teflon or Ptfe, graphite and silicone.
Differences between bike chain oil and its use in dry, wet or all climates
Without going into details of the composition of the oil itself and its additives, the main difference between a bicycle chain oil designed for use in the wet and one designed for dry use is its density, the density of an oil to lubricate the bicycle chain in the rain. is that it is very thick, so it forms an outer layer that repels water and will last much longer in wet and wet conditions.
On the contrary, if we use chain oil with dust, a paste will be created, producing the opposite effect to the lubricated one. Due to its density, it is an oil that has a hard time reaching all the necessary points, it stays more on the surface. On the contrary, an oil for bicycle chain and dry use is a very liquid oil, it penetrates very well into all parts, it gets little dirty, but it does not resist water very well, since it is so liquid, water can drag it away.
Then there is the “All Weather” bike chain oil, it is an intermediate oil, it gets dirty with dust more than dry oil and less than wet oil, at the same time it resists water. This oil is a very good option as an oil for MTB chain on mountain outings, such as the Pyrenees or Picos de Europa, since there will not be too much dust on the roads, we will have to cross rivers and it usually rains or there is high humidity.
The good thing about bicycle oil for all climates is that you can also lubricate other parts of the bicycle, especially if it is a spray oil for bicycles, we can use it on pedals, springs, bushings, etc.
Bike Chain Oil with Graphene, Teflon, Graphite or Silicone
Normally the oil is an additive base with various products depending on its use, the most common additives in a bike chain oil are:
Bike chain oil with graphene
This additive is the most advanced at the moment, you could say that it is almost futuristic, we have been seeing it for some years now in tires, in bike frames and now in bicycle chain oil. The advantage that graphene offers in a bike chain oil is the hardness and size of its molecule. The graphene molecule is 200 times stronger than that of the hardest steel, much lighter and one of the smallest.
The oil works as an intermediate layer between two moving metals. When this oil disappears or degrades due to use, a layer of “very hard balls” of graphene remains that act as a separation layer. The graphene is introduced and fills all the micro craters. of the metal thanks to its very small molecule leaving a completely smooth surface, when that layer of graphene disappears or is mixed with dirt you find two super smooth layers of metal.
This means that when there are two metals in contact, their surfaces are so smooth that it cancels out the sandpaper effect, reducing wear. In addition, bicycle chain oil with graphene is water-repellent and repels dust, so a chain oil base for all climates added with graphene, it will work well in dry conditions due to the anti-dust properties of graphene.
And it will work well when wet due to the water-repellent properties of graphene. Graphene, having one of the hardest molecules known, makes it very difficult for it to degrade, which is why the duration in kilometers of bicycle chain oil with graphene is much longer than with Teflon, graphite or silicone. In laboratory tests with perfect conditions it has lasted 1000 km, of course this is drastically reduced in real conditions.
Teflon bicycle oil
Teflon bicycle oil is one of the most used due to its great qualities before the arrival of bicycle oil with graphene, oil with Teflon for bicycle chain has properties similar to those of graphene but much lower, it is water-repellent and Dust repellent, which helps keep the chain clean.
Bike Chain Oil with graphite or silicone.
Both bicycle chain oil with graphite and bicycle chain oil with silicone are more difficult to use since they are far surpassed by bicycle oil with graphene or Teflon.
The parts where you have to use bike chain oil are:
- The bicycle chain.
- Derailleur moving points and springs.
- Movable shift points and springs.
- The shaft of the rollers.
- Spring and mechanism of automatic pedals.
- External contact points of the cables.
It is important to protect the disc and brake pads with a cloth or paper so that they do not become contaminated.
For the oil to be effective, you don't have to wait, you just apply it and pedal.
How to apply oil to the chain
The oil can be applied if the transmission is not dirty, but it is advisable to clean the transmission before applying the chain oil. Whether the oil is spray or liquid, it is best to apply it to the small sprocket area on the outside, giving a or two turns to the entire chain. Then we will apply chain oil to the inside and pass the chain through all the sprockets and plates.
Finally, we will remove all the excess oil if we see that we have gone too much, especially when it is applied in liquid with a paper or cloth, and we can now use the bicycle, there is no need to wait.
